Seva the World

Namascarome all! (local greeting similar to the Hindu namaste)

The taste of of sun ripened papaya combined with the tangy dryness of unsweetened yogurt (called curd here) lingers in my mouth as I sit typing to you on this summer evening. It is after nine and the sun has been down for some time now, yet the breeze from the ceiling fan above still feels warm upon my face and arms. That may have something to do with sun kissed nature of my slightly pink skin, in addition to the steadily increasing temperature. I was out in the mid-day blaze today on a trip to goddess Durga's temple, and will be wearing the mild result for a couple of days.

Sun or no sun, I am happy to have been involved in a 5 day series of classes in Kundalini yoga. I have been learning ancient breathing techniques in a group setting(I have also been invited to meet with the master personally as much as I can while I am here, and he will teach me "all I want to know" I will start these sessions next week). It has been yet another wonderful form of meditation to incorporate into my routine, and it feels like it came just at the right time (go figure). I speak of the timing, as this week has involved many powerful experiences and emotions that I am taking time to sort out both consciously and unconsciously.

Donna Guenther (retired MD/documentary photographer who put me in touch with VMM) is currently here in Vijayawada. We have been spending time together doing field visits as follow-ups on a photography series she is working on. Yesterday we visited a sex worker colony in the Guntur district. The colony is comprised of over 1500 sex workers and their families. We met with four HIV positive women within the colony, 3 of which had been sold to the colony as teenagers. The 4th moved to the colony because she was in love with a man who later sold her to one of the colony "madams." The madams keep all of the money that the workers make, and give them only enough to feed and cloth them.

Today we traveled to an industrial portion of the city that is home to a high population of migrant workers. Three members of the VMM staff were putting on a street play that incorporated youthful comedy with important information about HIV/AIDS. The play was being performed on the roadside next to VMM's HIV/AIDS mobile testing center where anyone can voluntarily be tested free of charge, and have the status disclosed to them within an hour. ptive to the overall scene, but regardless 20 people were tested while we were there. We didn't stay to hear the results, but the average results indicate that it is likely that at least one will be positive, as the area average is nearly 5 positive people out of 100. To put this in perspective for you, an average of 12 cases out of 100,000 are diagnosed positive in NY each year.

On a lighter note, the day that Donna arrived, we were invited to join Vidayamma (The great matriarch of VMM) at a very special awards ceremony honoring five countrymen (yes, all men) in the areas of music, arts and service, literature and Veda in the presence of a highly reveried Guru (Sri Sri Jayendra Saraswathi Swamiji). I was, for the first time, granted the opporunity to ride in the really special car that is reserved for Vidayamma! (I was squeezed in the front with Shanti (the driver) and Pavini (a young women who works in the office and was assigned to making catering to Donna this week) but that made no difference to me. I have since been given the higher honor of sitting in the back seat. (Everything here is a hierarchy!) Anyway! The ceremony started out with some of the most beautiful traditional Indian music and it lasted for over an hour. I was enthralled! We were sitting in the 5th row, which was wonderful, aside from the media people who decided by standing in front of everyone that if you really wanted a clear view of the program, you had to buy the film! Regaurdless of the brazen mediapersons, it was really and honor to attend this event!

I am going to take the time to tell you about my day today, although I am aware that these emails tend to be quite long. I saved the draft I wrote last night with the intentions of sending it out this morning, but India had other plans for me that I found it quite interesting. Saraswathi, my neighbor in the hostel, is working as a doctor. Today is to be her last day in the government hospital here, and she brought me along to show me what it is like. I was given the grand tour with an all access pass. (white skin and a smile) I was allowed to visit all of the wards, including the ICU even though there was a giant no visitors sign posted on the door. I didn't stay long as I saw some pretty gnarly sights, and felt a bit uncomfortable observing out of sheer curiosity, although I am sure they all thought I was a doctor. I was introduced to a large percentage of the staff, including a gynecologist who was tending to a patient while we exchanged small talk.

It was explained to me that the patients receive all of their care and medicines free of charge. A percentage of each of the staff members' pay is returned to the hospital to help cover cost, and the rest must be covered somehow through taxation? The hospital reminded me of something out of an old war movie with its dingy dimly lit corredorss hosting identical beds filled with malnourished patients with sundry ailments. Saraswathi sees up to 400 patients a day! These folks show up with small notebooks of varying shades of aged yellow, that serve as their medical records. (Each individual is responsible for holding on to thier own records) After about two mins of scanning the notebook, asking a few questions, and sometimes checking blood pressure or listening to the lung/heart of the patient, they are sent on their way to pick up medicine at the dispensary or follow other brief instructions from the doctor. I am curious how this compares to inner city clinics back home, as my only experience is with well funded private hospitals.

That's enough out of me for now. I feel as though this email may be a bit choppy, so if thier are any portions that leave you curious or wonder, as always, send me a note. I love you all and think of you often. For those of you in NY, I will try to send some sun shine your way :)

Haley Papa