Saturday, February 27, 2010

Seva the World

Namascarome all! (local greeting similar to the Hindu namaste)

The taste of of sun ripened papaya combined with the tangy dryness of unsweetened yogurt (called curd here) lingers in my mouth as I sit typing to you on this summer evening. It is after nine and the sun has been down for some time now, yet the breeze from the ceiling fan above still feels warm upon my face and arms. That may have something to do with sun kissed nature of my slightly pink skin, in addition to the steadily increasing temperature. I was out in the mid-day blaze today on a trip to goddess Durga's temple, and will be wearing the mild result for a couple of days.

Sun or no sun, I am happy to have been involved in a 5 day series of classes in Kundalini yoga. I have been learning ancient breathing techniques in a group setting(I have also been invited to meet with the master personally as much as I can while I am here, and he will teach me "all I want to know" I will start these sessions next week). It has been yet another wonderful form of meditation to incorporate into my routine, and it feels like it came just at the right time (go figure). I speak of the timing, as this week has involved many powerful experiences and emotions that I am taking time to sort out both consciously and unconsciously.

Donna Guenther (retired MD/documentary photographer who put me in touch with VMM) is currently here in Vijayawada. We have been spending time together doing field visits as follow-ups on a photography series she is working on. Yesterday we visited a sex worker colony in the Guntur district. The colony is comprised of over 1500 sex workers and their families. We met with four HIV positive women within the colony, 3 of which had been sold to the colony as teenagers. The 4th moved to the colony because she was in love with a man who later sold her to one of the colony "madams." The madams keep all of the money that the workers make, and give them only enough to feed and cloth them.

Today we traveled to an industrial portion of the city that is home to a high population of migrant workers. Three members of the VMM staff were putting on a street play that incorporated youthful comedy with important information about HIV/AIDS. The play was being performed on the roadside next to VMM's HIV/AIDS mobile testing center where anyone can voluntarily be tested free of charge, and have the status disclosed to them within an hour. ptive to the overall scene, but regardless 20 people were tested while we were there. We didn't stay to hear the results, but the average results indicate that it is likely that at least one will be positive, as the area average is nearly 5 positive people out of 100. To put this in perspective for you, an average of 12 cases out of 100,000 are diagnosed positive in NY each year.

On a lighter note, the day that Donna arrived, we were invited to join Vidayamma (The great matriarch of VMM) at a very special awards ceremony honoring five countrymen (yes, all men) in the areas of music, arts and service, literature and Veda in the presence of a highly reveried Guru (Sri Sri Jayendra Saraswathi Swamiji). I was, for the first time, granted the opporunity to ride in the really special car that is reserved for Vidayamma! (I was squeezed in the front with Shanti (the driver) and Pavini (a young women who works in the office and was assigned to making catering to Donna this week) but that made no difference to me. I have since been given the higher honor of sitting in the back seat. (Everything here is a hierarchy!) Anyway! The ceremony started out with some of the most beautiful traditional Indian music and it lasted for over an hour. I was enthralled! We were sitting in the 5th row, which was wonderful, aside from the media people who decided by standing in front of everyone that if you really wanted a clear view of the program, you had to buy the film! Regaurdless of the brazen mediapersons, it was really and honor to attend this event!

I am going to take the time to tell you about my day today, although I am aware that these emails tend to be quite long. I saved the draft I wrote last night with the intentions of sending it out this morning, but India had other plans for me that I found it quite interesting. Saraswathi, my neighbor in the hostel, is working as a doctor. Today is to be her last day in the government hospital here, and she brought me along to show me what it is like. I was given the grand tour with an all access pass. (white skin and a smile) I was allowed to visit all of the wards, including the ICU even though there was a giant no visitors sign posted on the door. I didn't stay long as I saw some pretty gnarly sights, and felt a bit uncomfortable observing out of sheer curiosity, although I am sure they all thought I was a doctor. I was introduced to a large percentage of the staff, including a gynecologist who was tending to a patient while we exchanged small talk.

It was explained to me that the patients receive all of their care and medicines free of charge. A percentage of each of the staff members' pay is returned to the hospital to help cover cost, and the rest must be covered somehow through taxation? The hospital reminded me of something out of an old war movie with its dingy dimly lit corredorss hosting identical beds filled with malnourished patients with sundry ailments. Saraswathi sees up to 400 patients a day! These folks show up with small notebooks of varying shades of aged yellow, that serve as their medical records. (Each individual is responsible for holding on to thier own records) After about two mins of scanning the notebook, asking a few questions, and sometimes checking blood pressure or listening to the lung/heart of the patient, they are sent on their way to pick up medicine at the dispensary or follow other brief instructions from the doctor. I am curious how this compares to inner city clinics back home, as my only experience is with well funded private hospitals.

That's enough out of me for now. I feel as though this email may be a bit choppy, so if thier are any portions that leave you curious or wonder, as always, send me a note. I love you all and think of you often. For those of you in NY, I will try to send some sun shine your way :)

Haley Papa

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

As sweet as sugar cane juice...

Hello, hello!

Where to begin today? My most recent encounter seems appropriate. This afternoon I took a walk down the 'The modern supermarket,' the bi level store where I purchase my everyday items (relative term), ranging from a tiffin container (a tightly sealing stainless steal container for storing rice, with and insert that goes on top for storing a curry separately) to ALL OUT, the chemical cocktail insert for an infuser that I try not to ponder while I sleep mostly mosquito free, to an ayurvedic menthol-y balm used to sooth headaches, in addition to groceries. This afternoon while I was on a mission for some more granola style cereal, I was somewhat taken back to look up an see a fellow white skinned creature standing in the isle, inspecting the boxes of granola. We spoke briefly, and it turns out that she is an American who's parents live in north Africa. She has been staying in Vijayawada for about a month, (like me!) and is planning to be here for another two months. We have exchanged contact info, and I am happy to have yet another friend in this city!

To catch you up briefly, the workshop I was set to begin last time I sent along a conglomerate of carefully, albeit it quickly, arranged words, went really well overall. It was a unique experience for many reasons, the most striking of which was the language barrier. My students did not speak English, a few key phrases aside, and Kumar Raja, the man who was assisting in translation and I often have a hard time understanding each other. So my instruction often turned into an amusing game of over exaggerated charades coupled with a good deal of pointing at things and emphatically repeating two to three words. I did see a marked improvement in their skill lever over the course of the three days, so in that, I feel something must have been getting through :)

They are now completing their final scripts which Dr. Deeksha and I will review before they begin filming. Keerthi was so pleased with my facilitating skills that she has appointed Abraham (another man in the office, whose English is slightly easier for me to follow) to arrange another workshop. This time I will be teaching staff from local NGO's. Currently, I am editing the film my first group of students shot during the field practical session held during the workshop. It is an short expose on unruly pedestrians darting in and out of traffic that will be used in schools to teach traffic safety. I smile knowing that I am often a culprit of this tango with local traffic, but I keep that to myself.

I ventured out for dinner in town last night. (with Gouri, Shalini (hostel mates), and Pria (Oxford PHD student)) We went to a restaurant where we enjoyed as much food as we could stomach (literally) under a soft breeze created by ceiling fans.( If we had opted to sit in the adjacent air conditioned room, it would have cost us each 10 rupees more). I was able to enjoy some delicious local favs, enhanced by flavors from the likes of ghee, coconut, and extra rich curd, that are often absent at the mess hall due to the cost. I ate so much that I was not sure I would be able to leave the table, but once back on the street I managed to find room for a cup of sugar cane juice, dressed up with some lemon and ginger. YUMMMM

Tonight the four of us will head back out to see an Indian classic movie called Maya Bizarre. The starring actor recently "expired, as they like to say, so the movie has re-entered the theaters. I am equally curious about the theater and the movie and oh so thankful that Gouri is both able and willing to keep me in the language loop. After the movie we will do some sampling at a nearby tiffin bar, where they serve over 30 kinds of dosas. Large, very thin pancake looking breakfast/ snack item.

That being said, in addition to me again becoming aware of the time, I will finish here for today. I have some new cloths waiting for me at the tailor, which i would like to pick up before we go. I picked one up yesterday, and she did a great job. I am excited to see the other two. She seems to be using extra care with my cloths, and even offered to put elastic in my pants as I am "not used to tying knots like the Indian women do." I declined, but the gesture was sweet, nonetheless.

LOVE TO YOU !

Haley

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Hello once again,

Here I sit, after completing the preparations for my workshop, smiling to myself. I have considered myself to be a pretty laid back individual, who is practiced at the art of going with the flow, but the last week has shown me otherwise. Over the course of the week, I have become increasingly aware of my western sensibilities, and desire for material ques of progress. As I continued to work out schedules, ask questions, create documents, I was softly reminded that everything will work itself out. "You're here, with us, it is going to be great. We will help you." I have to laugh,knowing that I have not met with my team and yet when 9:30 tomorrow morning comes, we will work together, and have a successful day.In this, I am reminded of a quote I read (and instantly agreed with) a couple of weeks ago. "I found [my way] by making careful plans that quickly disintegrated, as they always did in India, into fate and serendipity" (E. Bumiller).

In addition to gathering my thoughts for the workshop, I have been able to spend some more time learning a bit more about the numerous projects that VMM is involved in. A friend of mine, (Shalini) whose birthday wish was to introduce me to some orphan children who were excited to meet a white american, accompanied me to VMM Children's Village. We set out on our birthday adventure! One auto rickshaw, two people, two buses, and a short walk later, we had arrived. The children were still at school for the day, so I had the opportunity to check out the facilities and view the vast vegetable gardens on the grounds. In addition to housing, feeding, and loving 30 children(HIV/AIDS orphans), the facility is equipped with the capacity to train the children with sewing and embroidery skills. They make the most beautiful Sari's and sell them locally, to supplement the cost of the maintaining the village. Once the children arrived they sang and danced for me, and smiles never left their faces (nor mine).

I have recently been made the honorary editor here at the office. I am putting my native language skills to good use, making sure that documents are in proper order before they leave the office. It started when we were preparing for the National Aids Control Organization's (NACOs) Director General to pay us a visit, which turned out to be quite the media event. My face made it into the background of a photograph that was published the next day in a national paper (The Hindu).

When I first arrived here, there was a bit of cultural confusion, as only men wear jeans. I have since put away my jeans and have become accustomed to wearing the local punjabi dress (Long tunic, usually silk, with matching pants and Chuni or scarf like article) daily. Many of you would be shocked to know that at this moment, I am dressed shoulders to ankles in baby pink! I enjoy the comfort of the cloths on these increasingly warm days, but am far from mastering the graceful art of chuni wearing :)

I took my style a step further while attending a birthday party. (Dr. Deeksha threw a fabulous suare in honor of her son becoming a major (turning 18)). I arrived at the event, in a beautiful black Sari (I did not find out until later that wearing a black sari denotes ones feeling that they are the star of the party!) complete with heels and gold jewelry compliments of my friend (Srilu) who spent 20 mins getting the Sari tied on me properly. What an art that is! And these women can do it themselves! I am still in awe of this fact every morning watching the working woman going about their business in their Saris, knowing that they tied them on that morning without help! My favorite comment, of the many flattering remarks I received was, "Haley Akka, you look like a superhero!" Akka means elder sister in Telugu.

As much fun as it has been playing dress up, I am told that it may be the source of a recent fever I endured. Local lore dictates that a jealous woman was likely to have seen how beautiful I look in Indian dress and became envious. In a fit of jealousy, she cast evil spirits upon me that manifested themselves in the form of a feverish headache. It is a wonderful thought, to think that that I was only sick because I am so beautiful...good step towards the road to recovery :)

Well, it is just about tea time, so I will leave you all to contemplate my beauty until next time :) haha. Seriously though, I have fallen in love with my afternoon chai in an ornately decorated petite mug. Oh and speaking of drinks I have fallen in love with! There is a man down the rd (Bapu) who will make me a fresh cup of juice (I get to choose from a plethora of delicious exotic fruits) without sugar and ice (he finds that funny) for 15 rupees, which is like 35 cents. Actually, I can (and do) buy whole papayas for 10rs from my fruit guy across the street. This place is magic!

LOVE TO ALL
Haley

PS I nearly forgot to explain the email subject. The customary greeting here (like our How are you?) is Have you had your lunch? Or breakfast, tea, depending on the time of day. The anthropologist in me wonders if this is because food scarcity is so common in India that asking if one has had their meal, is essentially a question about their well being...???

PPS (double post scrips are becoming a theme) Once again, if I have omitted anyone, please feel free to forward this and make me aware of my omission. <3

Monday, February 8, 2010

Eatin curry...in no hurry...

Hello dearest loved ones,

It has been two weeks, and as I have shared with some of you already, I feel as though it has been lifetimes. That is not to say the time is dragging, it is simply a statement of the vast experiences and changes I have felt in what is considered to be 14 days. I have been living in a world of child-like wonderment, that I greatly enjoy, and have consciously made an effort to retain in my life. I smile, laugh, and love with my new friends and my heart is full. I feel both creatively inspired and centered. I feel alive and energetic while also feeling quiet and peaceful. I walk slowly and happily in the bubble of love that I have found (or has found me) here.

I currently reside in a humble rooftop abode...or the penthouse as i sometimes think of it :) I have a cot, that happens to be a bit shorter than I, and a small table. My room is often scattered with books (as I have been reading everything I can get my hands on) and full of curious students enjoying conversation in whatever level of english they can manage. My room has not only become a social center, it is also a safe haven for studious woman looking for reprieve from their distracting rooms. They all worry greatly that I must "have so much fear" after traveling so far on my own, only to live in a room by myself on the roof. I reassure them often that I could never be lonely with so many loving souls around, and that I too enjoy time alone to meditate and reflect, or sit quietly reading and drawing. Also, I have a lizard friend who visits me nightly after everyone leaves, to say goodnight and snack on bugs :)

For the first time in my life, I have gained a sense of what a rock star may feel like. I have become somewhat of a local celebrity. In addition to all the college woman who adore/feel comfortable with me because I speak slowly and take the time to understand their english, I have random people coming up to me on the street, telling me how awesome I am, and to shake my hand(Even at temple!). I am escorted nearly everywhere I go, given first priority to every seat, always being gifted snacks and treats. My morning and afternoon tea is hand delivered to me wherever i happen to be at the customary time. I surely am not used to it, and it is taking me a while to adjust/feel comfortable with it. I must say, the girls think i am very special, as I am the 'royal American' who still washes her own clothes by hand at night and lays them out to dry :)

I have coined a saying since I have arrived. "We eat with our hands, and work with our hearts." I find it very appropriate. We do actually eat with our hands! Every meal consists of rice, some sort of curry, a tenuous broth called sambar, and a white yogurt type curd. We mix these things with rice on our plates, and eat them with our right hand. The left hand is not used, as it is used to wash after using the bathroom. Instead of toilet paper, there is a small bucket of water by each toilet. (I still treat myself to roles of toilet paper from the 'modern super market' as I am not completely sold on the hand) The toilets are essentially a porcelain hole in the floor that is squatted over. I am becoming a very good marks woman :)

The work that is done here, I have only begun to scratch the surface of. Yesterday I visited a home that currently houses 19 "Grannys." These are all older woman who have nobody to care for them, and would otherwise have nowhere to live. VMM is currently building an addition to house 7 more woman. I attended thier support group, with Keerthi Madam, my advisor and increasingly close friend, who has been overseeing the home for the last 13 years. Although i could not understand the meeting, as it was in Telugu, the local dialect, I could see the love and gratitude on these beautifully aged woman's faces. Many of them could barely stand, but all stood up as soon as Keerthi walked into the room, and did not sit until she herself was seated comfortably. It was an incredible sight.

I am currently planning a workshop for street children. My team and I will be training ten of them in basic photography and videography. In addition we will be writing the 'script' to four short documentaries, chronically a small portion of the work done by VMM. One of the videos will focus on the street children themselves, thier struggles, and how VMM and the youth shelter, the youth center training programs, and overall support of VMM has aided in making lifestyle changes. I feel so privileged to be a part of this work, and look forward to seeing it captured through their own eyes. I will edit the footage, and the final products will be used in a variety of settings including national seminars and fundraising events.

I could write pages and pages, and never being able to fully capture a single aspect of my life here, but this is my attempt to share a sense of what I am experiencing. I will keep you all updated frequently, in hopes that you enjoy my ramblings. I love you all, and look forward to seeing all of your beautiful faces when the time comes for my to return. If you have specific questions or feeling like saying hello, feel free to send them my way. I will gladly return an email. I enjoy having little pieces of my past life in my inbox each morning:) Until then,Haley PS my apologies for typos / things that dont quite make sense...hopefully you can decode excited Haley jabber :)