I AM PILGRIM

My dear family,

I have returned from my most recent adventure with Gouri. This time we were joined by 25 members of her family- destination Tirupati, a pilgrimage city in the state of Andhra Pradesh. As the group was coming from Visak and I was in Vijayawada, Chanti, "my driver," and Pavani, a friend from the office, accompanied me to the train station where I intercepted the train and joined my group. We were traveling in the class called "third AC." This meant that the car was air conditioned, and that we each had a small bunk for sleeping during the overnight trip. The bunks were stacked three high and there were to stacks of bunks in each compartment, so six people slept in each compartment. Not a bad way to travel for the equivalent of less than 10 American dollars :)

We arrived at the early morning hour of 5:30 and proceeded to freshen up in the third ac waiting room, complete with bathing areas, sinks, and an air conditioned room with chairs. After some time we loaded into two jeep style taxis. Most of the group went directly to the rooms in which we would all be staying, but the heartier members of the group were dropped at the bottom of the "seven hills" and over the course of the morning climbed out way to the top. 3,500 steps over the course of 8km and we had made it. I felt so energized all day, a welcome feeling after not being sure I would be able to make the journey as I was experiencing a fever, headache, nausea and diarrhea the days before. Another reason to make the pilgrimage to see God right?!

Some people make the entire journey on their knees. Others honor each step by placing kum kum ( a, usually red or yellow, powder used ceremoniously) on each step. Still others light camphor on each step as they go. Devotees have various forms of expressing their dedication, and it makes for a beautiful sight and a lot of really good energy.

Along the way we came across a fenced in area filled with white spotted, fuzzy horned deer. They had clearly become very accustomed to being fed by the pilgrims, as most of them crowded by the fencee in anticipation of an wilting carrot, cucumber or watermelon rind. I fed them somewhat hesitantly, somehow unable to escape a feeling of disappointment. I noticed some of the elder most dear (judging by their body and horn size) were sitting far away from the feeding frenzy, under the shade of a tree. It seemed to me that they were looking on like a wise grandparent watching their grandchildren fall more and more deeply into the trap of the rampant materialst culture...

After reaching the top of the hills, we went directly to a room where many people were either having or waiting to have their hair cut. Many people decide to give their hair to God as a form of thanks for wishes granted, or as a sign of rejection of material vanity. Those who do not shave their heads, generally give three cuttings of their hair. 9 members of our group shaved their heads, including two grandmothers and one aunt. I really liked the idea and wanted to shave my head (again) also, but decided that my reasons for doing so would be less than holy at this point in time, so I reserved myself.

After a good ol bucket bath we set out to visit the greatly anticipated temple of Venkateswara or Balaji. Being the richest and most visited holy site in the world, (reportedly) we shared the experience of visiting the temple that day with nearly 100,000 other people. During festivals, the number shoots up to nearly half a million people in one day. On the final day of the three we spent in the area, we enjoyed a free lunch put on by devotees of this temple. I was told that the lunch serves 10 of thousands of people daily ( I believe it) and is paid for on the interest alone from the income generated by this temple. God is said the manifest into the form of a human and dine with everyone who attends this lunch.

After the first day, we spent two more days visiting holy sites in and around Tirupati. We went to so many temples that I am not even sure of the exact number, at the moment. It is customary to eat Prasadam, food that is first offered to a Deity and then given out to devotees after seeing God at the temple, was given to me so many times that I was stuffed to the brim with holiness! It was incredible to experience all of these holy sites during the days of the full moon. One of the best views came at the Golden Temple of Laksmi in Tamil Nadu. Gouri and I were standing at the edge of a rupee filled pool with the golden temple in the middle and a bright and full moon hanging above. Around us was a grassy and tree filled area contained by a walkway in the shape of a 6 pointed star. there was a soft, cool breeze and the night air was smelling so fresh. Pretty magical.

On our way to Tamil Nadu, I was intrigued to look out the window at the sound of drums and horns. I thought that perhaps I would be able to see another wedding procession going on. To my surprise, when I looked out the window, I saw two men hanging from hooks through their backs that were attached to long wooden poles that were fixed to two carts being pulled by oxen. Yet another devotional act, which is quite common in the state of Tamil Nadu.

Yet again I find myself creating another copious email,despite attempts at brevity, and still hold so many stories partially or completely untold. As you can imagine, with a group of 25 on a three day action packed trip, many stories accumulated. Alas, I will leave you with the ones already disclosed and move on to one final point before I close.

I would like to take the time to tell you a bit about my birthday celebration, as my family here was very concerned that my family abroad would be missing me and wanted to make sure that they knew how well taken care of I was. To celebrate, 50 people gathered in one of the VMM halls for the cake cutting. They had arranged for a sheet cake decorated with a personalized greeting and artistic lotus flowers. As tradition dictates, I cut the first piece. If my parents were present I would have fed them the first pieces, before I received mine. In this case, Rashmi and two others fed me pieces of cake and then everyone enjoyed some. I was presented a handmade garland to wear around my neck, pieces of fruit from several people, a hand stitched bag, and a new outfit. Everyone sang happy birthday and lined up to shake my hand and wish me "happy birthday", and "many many happy return of the day." It was a very sweet celebration and I felt very honored.

To keep the energy moving forward I will leave you all today with sweetness and honor.

Haley