My dear family,
I have returned from my most recent adventure with Gouri. This time we were joined by 25 members of her family- destination Tirupati, a pilgrimage city in the state of Andhra Pradesh. As the group was coming from Visak and I was in Vijayawada, Chanti, "my driver," and Pavani, a friend from the office, accompanied me to the train station where I intercepted the train and joined my group. We were traveling in the class called "third AC." This meant that the car was air conditioned, and that we each had a small bunk for sleeping during the overnight trip. The bunks were stacked three high and there were to stacks of bunks in each compartment, so six people slept in each compartment. Not a bad way to travel for the equivalent of less than 10 American dollars :)
We arrived at the early morning hour of 5:30 and proceeded to freshen up in the third ac waiting room, complete with bathing areas, sinks, and an air conditioned room with chairs. After some time we loaded into two jeep style taxis. Most of the group went directly to the rooms in which we would all be staying, but the heartier members of the group were dropped at the bottom of the "seven hills" and over the course of the morning climbed out way to the top. 3,500 steps over the course of 8km and we had made it. I felt so energized all day, a welcome feeling after not being sure I would be able to make the journey as I was experiencing a fever, headache, nausea and diarrhea the days before. Another reason to make the pilgrimage to see God right?!
Some people make the entire journey on their knees. Others honor each step by placing kum kum ( a, usually red or yellow, powder used ceremoniously) on each step. Still others light camphor on each step as they go. Devotees have various forms of expressing their dedication, and it makes for a beautiful sight and a lot of really good energy.
Along the way we came across a fenced in area filled with white spotted, fuzzy horned deer. They had clearly become very accustomed to being fed by the pilgrims, as most of them crowded by the fencee in anticipation of an wilting carrot, cucumber or watermelon rind. I fed them somewhat hesitantly, somehow unable to escape a feeling of disappointment. I noticed some of the elder most dear (judging by their body and horn size) were sitting far away from the feeding frenzy, under the shade of a tree. It seemed to me that they were looking on like a wise grandparent watching their grandchildren fall more and more deeply into the trap of the rampant materialst culture...
After reaching the top of the hills, we went directly to a room where many people were either having or waiting to have their hair cut. Many people decide to give their hair to God as a form of thanks for wishes granted, or as a sign of rejection of material vanity. Those who do not shave their heads, generally give three cuttings of their hair. 9 members of our group shaved their heads, including two grandmothers and one aunt. I really liked the idea and wanted to shave my head (again) also, but decided that my reasons for doing so would be less than holy at this point in time, so I reserved myself.
After a good ol bucket bath we set out to visit the greatly anticipated temple of Venkateswara or Balaji. Being the richest and most visited holy site in the world, (reportedly) we shared the experience of visiting the temple that day with nearly 100,000 other people. During festivals, the number shoots up to nearly half a million people in one day. On the final day of the three we spent in the area, we enjoyed a free lunch put on by devotees of this temple. I was told that the lunch serves 10 of thousands of people daily ( I believe it) and is paid for on the interest alone from the income generated by this temple. God is said the manifest into the form of a human and dine with everyone who attends this lunch.
After the first day, we spent two more days visiting holy sites in and around Tirupati. We went to so many temples that I am not even sure of the exact number, at the moment. It is customary to eat Prasadam, food that is first offered to a Deity and then given out to devotees after seeing God at the temple, was given to me so many times that I was stuffed to the brim with holiness! It was incredible to experience all of these holy sites during the days of the full moon. One of the best views came at the Golden Temple of Laksmi in Tamil Nadu. Gouri and I were standing at the edge of a rupee filled pool with the golden temple in the middle and a bright and full moon hanging above. Around us was a grassy and tree filled area contained by a walkway in the shape of a 6 pointed star. there was a soft, cool breeze and the night air was smelling so fresh. Pretty magical.
On our way to Tamil Nadu, I was intrigued to look out the window at the sound of drums and horns. I thought that perhaps I would be able to see another wedding procession going on. To my surprise, when I looked out the window, I saw two men hanging from hooks through their backs that were attached to long wooden poles that were fixed to two carts being pulled by oxen. Yet another devotional act, which is quite common in the state of Tamil Nadu.
Yet again I find myself creating another copious email,despite attempts at brevity, and still hold so many stories partially or completely untold. As you can imagine, with a group of 25 on a three day action packed trip, many stories accumulated. Alas, I will leave you with the ones already disclosed and move on to one final point before I close.
I would like to take the time to tell you a bit about my birthday celebration, as my family here was very concerned that my family abroad would be missing me and wanted to make sure that they knew how well taken care of I was. To celebrate, 50 people gathered in one of the VMM halls for the cake cutting. They had arranged for a sheet cake decorated with a personalized greeting and artistic lotus flowers. As tradition dictates, I cut the first piece. If my parents were present I would have fed them the first pieces, before I received mine. In this case, Rashmi and two others fed me pieces of cake and then everyone enjoyed some. I was presented a handmade garland to wear around my neck, pieces of fruit from several people, a hand stitched bag, and a new outfit. Everyone sang happy birthday and lined up to shake my hand and wish me "happy birthday", and "many many happy return of the day." It was a very sweet celebration and I felt very honored.
To keep the energy moving forward I will leave you all today with sweetness and honor.
Haley
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Monday, March 22, 2010
Amusing musings sing in us
Greetings fellow earth travelers,
I am feeling much more settled and reflective than when I sent along the last note which came barreling forth like it's namesake, the Indian train. I have had a restful night's sleep with added material comfort. I was provided with a basic mat to use on my cot when I arrived, but had loaned it to a friend who did not have one. I had become very accustomed to sleeping directly on the weaved fibers of my cot, and last night felt as though I was slumbering on a dreamy marshmellow cloud (you know the ones that you can play on in your dreams because they are not explained away by the scientist and thier water vapor talk :) ) I did subsequently sleep much later than usual, but after a successful second workshop, I was pleased to grant myself this opportunity.
It was quite the experience facilitating this workshop, as the American documentary film expert, for folks from all over India. What started out in my vision as a basic volunteer service for local NGO workers, turned out to be a more intensive program for 8 individuals whose daily residents span the breadth of India. One man was came all the way from Manipur, which is in NE India near the Nepalese boarder. (Foreigners need a restricted area permit to enter) It is a place that is strikingly different than where I am staying in the south, and I am very thankful to be given continual opportunities to expand my support network in india. Mother India and I already have an agreement for my return to attend to vague unfinished business, and I have not even stepped of her magnetic soils. She has a strong grip :)
I have agreed to complete one more training similar to the one I just completed before I embark on my journey back to the US on April 20th. For those of you interested, I will be in NY from the 21until the early morning hours on the 27th, at which time I will fly back to SF and begin a full time 6 month project with Far Wester, the company I worked with last field season. In addition to the doc. film training, I will organize a series of yoga classes at VMMs childrens village which will be lead by the master from which I have been learning about pranic breathing and kundalini yoga. In the mean time, I am also setting the intention of finding a female yoga instructor who would be willing to work with me daily at VMM, as Keerthi is somewhat concerned about me working so closely with a male teacher.
The cultural rules surrounding the roles and appropriate relationships of men and women here are incredibly strong and so interesting to me. I get away with a lot being a foreigner (thankfully) but still manage to push even my limits, many times unknowingly. Here, women have different lines at the airport for security checks which are conducted by women only. This is true of everywhere I have been where security is required, except on a few occasions where I have attended special events with Vidyamma, during which we casual breeze through security as honored guests and are not subjected to any searches or scans.
The idea of modesty is somewhat different than I would have imagined as well. I daily wear Punjabi dress (long tunic and pants) but usually forgo wearing my scarf as I end up dropping it, tripping on it, getting myself wrapped up in it etc. Even though the neck is quite high on most of my tops, it is still considered very bold and risque (spelling?) of me. It turned into quite the ordeal on the train to Visak. While Gouri and I were both sleeping there was apparently a couple young men commenting on my lack of Chuni and a chivalrous fella from a few rows back observed. I woke up to him loudly and obtrusively scolding the men. Meanwhile woman in saris sat "modestly" in thier tight blouses with a good portion of thier stomachs and backs exposed. It reminds me of a tribe in south america (maybe?) who live toplessly, but find the exposure of the female calf to be unspeakable.
Something else that has struck me recently is how unaware of my physical differences i have become. Being stared at is so commonplace now, that I hardly ever notice. Will it be weird to go unnoticed in the US? And on the rare occassion when I catch my reflection in a window or mirrow, I am shocked to see a white person with light hair and blue eyes staring back at me. Where did that body come from? I'm not an Indian?!
One final recent discovery, which I hadn't thought about prior to visiting Visak, was the source of some amusement for me. I purchased a new pair of chappels (sandles) as my perfectly broken in pair that I love and wear daily is becoming (or really has already become) very beat up and dingy looking (well loved and amazing). Apprearance is very important here, and I was attending many family functions, so, out of respect made this purchase. The leather sandles that I decided upon complete with jingley bangles, were being described to me as the highest quality (of course) camel leather from Rajistan. I hadn't stopped to think about where the leather that people wear here has been coming from. Of course it wouldn't be coming from thier worshipped cows!
As always, I keep you all in my heart as I float along, and am so thankful that so many loving souls do the same for me!
Satha Koti Deevenalu (Many Blessings)
Haley
I am feeling much more settled and reflective than when I sent along the last note which came barreling forth like it's namesake, the Indian train. I have had a restful night's sleep with added material comfort. I was provided with a basic mat to use on my cot when I arrived, but had loaned it to a friend who did not have one. I had become very accustomed to sleeping directly on the weaved fibers of my cot, and last night felt as though I was slumbering on a dreamy marshmellow cloud (you know the ones that you can play on in your dreams because they are not explained away by the scientist and thier water vapor talk :) ) I did subsequently sleep much later than usual, but after a successful second workshop, I was pleased to grant myself this opportunity.
It was quite the experience facilitating this workshop, as the American documentary film expert, for folks from all over India. What started out in my vision as a basic volunteer service for local NGO workers, turned out to be a more intensive program for 8 individuals whose daily residents span the breadth of India. One man was came all the way from Manipur, which is in NE India near the Nepalese boarder. (Foreigners need a restricted area permit to enter) It is a place that is strikingly different than where I am staying in the south, and I am very thankful to be given continual opportunities to expand my support network in india. Mother India and I already have an agreement for my return to attend to vague unfinished business, and I have not even stepped of her magnetic soils. She has a strong grip :)
I have agreed to complete one more training similar to the one I just completed before I embark on my journey back to the US on April 20th. For those of you interested, I will be in NY from the 21until the early morning hours on the 27th, at which time I will fly back to SF and begin a full time 6 month project with Far Wester, the company I worked with last field season. In addition to the doc. film training, I will organize a series of yoga classes at VMMs childrens village which will be lead by the master from which I have been learning about pranic breathing and kundalini yoga. In the mean time, I am also setting the intention of finding a female yoga instructor who would be willing to work with me daily at VMM, as Keerthi is somewhat concerned about me working so closely with a male teacher.
The cultural rules surrounding the roles and appropriate relationships of men and women here are incredibly strong and so interesting to me. I get away with a lot being a foreigner (thankfully) but still manage to push even my limits, many times unknowingly. Here, women have different lines at the airport for security checks which are conducted by women only. This is true of everywhere I have been where security is required, except on a few occasions where I have attended special events with Vidyamma, during which we casual breeze through security as honored guests and are not subjected to any searches or scans.
The idea of modesty is somewhat different than I would have imagined as well. I daily wear Punjabi dress (long tunic and pants) but usually forgo wearing my scarf as I end up dropping it, tripping on it, getting myself wrapped up in it etc. Even though the neck is quite high on most of my tops, it is still considered very bold and risque (spelling?) of me. It turned into quite the ordeal on the train to Visak. While Gouri and I were both sleeping there was apparently a couple young men commenting on my lack of Chuni and a chivalrous fella from a few rows back observed. I woke up to him loudly and obtrusively scolding the men. Meanwhile woman in saris sat "modestly" in thier tight blouses with a good portion of thier stomachs and backs exposed. It reminds me of a tribe in south america (maybe?) who live toplessly, but find the exposure of the female calf to be unspeakable.
Something else that has struck me recently is how unaware of my physical differences i have become. Being stared at is so commonplace now, that I hardly ever notice. Will it be weird to go unnoticed in the US? And on the rare occassion when I catch my reflection in a window or mirrow, I am shocked to see a white person with light hair and blue eyes staring back at me. Where did that body come from? I'm not an Indian?!
One final recent discovery, which I hadn't thought about prior to visiting Visak, was the source of some amusement for me. I purchased a new pair of chappels (sandles) as my perfectly broken in pair that I love and wear daily is becoming (or really has already become) very beat up and dingy looking (well loved and amazing). Apprearance is very important here, and I was attending many family functions, so, out of respect made this purchase. The leather sandles that I decided upon complete with jingley bangles, were being described to me as the highest quality (of course) camel leather from Rajistan. I hadn't stopped to think about where the leather that people wear here has been coming from. Of course it wouldn't be coming from thier worshipped cows!
As always, I keep you all in my heart as I float along, and am so thankful that so many loving souls do the same for me!
Satha Koti Deevenalu (Many Blessings)
Haley
Thursday, March 18, 2010
Capital Gains and Indian Trains
Happy Ugadi everyone!
Ugadi is the Telugu New Year which just passed on March 16th. I was in the coastal city of Visakhapatnam staying with friends and enjoy a wonderful chutney made only once a year of tangy green mangos, fresh coconut, green chili, jaggery (a less processed sugarcane product) and tamarind juice! The chutney is not only celebratory of the new Year, but also the start of another mango season here in southern India. I am enjoying the green mangos now, and so pleased I will be here to enjoy a newly sun ripened orange mango freshly fallen from the tree in a few weeks! I was originally thinking I may miss out on the mangoes in order to head north and do some further exploration, but it now seems as though I will be staying south for the remainder of my time here.
Before traveling to Vizag, (as it is known locally), and taking a dip the Bay of Bengal, visiting a meditation center, receiving a long awaited massage, visiting a 2000 plus year old Buddhist site, learning the culinary secrets of Indian women with my newly acquired family, I spent a few days with some extended "family" in Hyderabad, the capital city of the state in which i have been residing, Andhra Pradesh.
During this time, some intriguing historical sites, including the "Old City." The streets of the old city were teaming with bustling groups and individuals shopping among the local artisans. I was fascinated by the number of Muslim woman purdah, veiled from outside gazers and also from the world of men. There was something ironic about the woman cloaked in their sea of black, looking at and buy wildly bright Indian textiles. I am aware that this is my outsider perspective and that i will never truly know about the individuals beneath the anonymising (Bushism? not you tara ;) ) cloth. I tried to discretly take photographs of these women and failed...didn't fail in taking the pictures persay, but was having a hard time being discreet as the tall white tourist.
When i started this email i had intentions of telling you all so many things about the wonderful adventures i have been encountering, but alas I have decided to devote time to updating facebook (yes, crackbook strikes again) pictures, and am therefore going to neglect taking this story any further. I could be focusing all of my attention on preparing for my workshop this weekend, which by the way, I found out yesterday that folks are litteraly flying in from all over india to attend! But, who wants to focus ALL of their attention on any one thing?! Not I, said the duck duck (Little Red hen, any one with me?!) haha ok, Haley Chronicles to be continued.....
LoVe like a storm in the desert (did i just rip off john Denver?!?!) hahahah
Haley
Ugadi is the Telugu New Year which just passed on March 16th. I was in the coastal city of Visakhapatnam staying with friends and enjoy a wonderful chutney made only once a year of tangy green mangos, fresh coconut, green chili, jaggery (a less processed sugarcane product) and tamarind juice! The chutney is not only celebratory of the new Year, but also the start of another mango season here in southern India. I am enjoying the green mangos now, and so pleased I will be here to enjoy a newly sun ripened orange mango freshly fallen from the tree in a few weeks! I was originally thinking I may miss out on the mangoes in order to head north and do some further exploration, but it now seems as though I will be staying south for the remainder of my time here.
Before traveling to Vizag, (as it is known locally), and taking a dip the Bay of Bengal, visiting a meditation center, receiving a long awaited massage, visiting a 2000 plus year old Buddhist site, learning the culinary secrets of Indian women with my newly acquired family, I spent a few days with some extended "family" in Hyderabad, the capital city of the state in which i have been residing, Andhra Pradesh.
During this time, some intriguing historical sites, including the "Old City." The streets of the old city were teaming with bustling groups and individuals shopping among the local artisans. I was fascinated by the number of Muslim woman purdah, veiled from outside gazers and also from the world of men. There was something ironic about the woman cloaked in their sea of black, looking at and buy wildly bright Indian textiles. I am aware that this is my outsider perspective and that i will never truly know about the individuals beneath the anonymising (Bushism? not you tara ;) ) cloth. I tried to discretly take photographs of these women and failed...didn't fail in taking the pictures persay, but was having a hard time being discreet as the tall white tourist.
When i started this email i had intentions of telling you all so many things about the wonderful adventures i have been encountering, but alas I have decided to devote time to updating facebook (yes, crackbook strikes again) pictures, and am therefore going to neglect taking this story any further. I could be focusing all of my attention on preparing for my workshop this weekend, which by the way, I found out yesterday that folks are litteraly flying in from all over india to attend! But, who wants to focus ALL of their attention on any one thing?! Not I, said the duck duck (Little Red hen, any one with me?!) haha ok, Haley Chronicles to be continued.....
LoVe like a storm in the desert (did i just rip off john Denver?!?!) hahahah
Haley
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