Namaste~
I am nearing the end of this cycle, phase, moment,span, and/or experience in southern India. In this place that has drawn me close and held me lovingly, a sense of completion has arisen inside of me. This fulfillment is paralleled closely by its compliment, a sense of beginning. As in the yin and yang philosophy, with manifestation comes potential and activity. Both dwell within me.
As I sit here, the smells of sandalwood and jasmine permeate the air. Knowing how closely aroma is tied to memory, I wonder which moments will remain the strongest within me. Will it be olfactory ties that suddenly bring me back to Besant Rd during the nightly hustle and bustle in the cool summer air, or to my rooftop where Gouri and I, out stretched on a fiberous mat, waxed poetic under a dilated moon? Will a savory trace of curry or cardamom transport me back to a table on which the only setting is a banana leaf, or to my solitary walk to meet my yoga teacher accompanied only by the symphony of traffic and horns? Or will the city that has become my garden melt away with time, and only the feelings of joy and peace that it has proffered remain?
Although the moments and memories may be fleeting, the ephemeral nature of my time here, will undoubtedly be transformed to permanence in the form of perpetual love and everlasting energy. India has been a dreaming tree, a revealer of secrets, a keeper of keys to previously locked gates. This is not because India carries truths of no other place in this earthly realm, no. It is a result of my unique path. I was prepared to journey boldly in a stationary fashion to find the truths that are always with us.I may have been on Indian soil but more vitally, I was ready to silently and patiently look within.
I thank you all for enjoying part of this journey with me. It brings mist to my eyes contemplating the amount of love in this world, and being able to share that with the community around me. As Gouri and I took a lovely, slow paced rickshaw ride to the lassi (sweetened milk drink) stand last night, Gouri reminded me of this karmic bubble of love I find myself in. She did so with a very simple statement. "There are only good people around you," she said, and in part, she was speaking of you.
Love like each breath we take,
Haley
Saturday, April 17, 2010
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
I AM PILGRIM
My dear family,
I have returned from my most recent adventure with Gouri. This time we were joined by 25 members of her family- destination Tirupati, a pilgrimage city in the state of Andhra Pradesh. As the group was coming from Visak and I was in Vijayawada, Chanti, "my driver," and Pavani, a friend from the office, accompanied me to the train station where I intercepted the train and joined my group. We were traveling in the class called "third AC." This meant that the car was air conditioned, and that we each had a small bunk for sleeping during the overnight trip. The bunks were stacked three high and there were to stacks of bunks in each compartment, so six people slept in each compartment. Not a bad way to travel for the equivalent of less than 10 American dollars :)
We arrived at the early morning hour of 5:30 and proceeded to freshen up in the third ac waiting room, complete with bathing areas, sinks, and an air conditioned room with chairs. After some time we loaded into two jeep style taxis. Most of the group went directly to the rooms in which we would all be staying, but the heartier members of the group were dropped at the bottom of the "seven hills" and over the course of the morning climbed out way to the top. 3,500 steps over the course of 8km and we had made it. I felt so energized all day, a welcome feeling after not being sure I would be able to make the journey as I was experiencing a fever, headache, nausea and diarrhea the days before. Another reason to make the pilgrimage to see God right?!
Some people make the entire journey on their knees. Others honor each step by placing kum kum ( a, usually red or yellow, powder used ceremoniously) on each step. Still others light camphor on each step as they go. Devotees have various forms of expressing their dedication, and it makes for a beautiful sight and a lot of really good energy.
Along the way we came across a fenced in area filled with white spotted, fuzzy horned deer. They had clearly become very accustomed to being fed by the pilgrims, as most of them crowded by the fencee in anticipation of an wilting carrot, cucumber or watermelon rind. I fed them somewhat hesitantly, somehow unable to escape a feeling of disappointment. I noticed some of the elder most dear (judging by their body and horn size) were sitting far away from the feeding frenzy, under the shade of a tree. It seemed to me that they were looking on like a wise grandparent watching their grandchildren fall more and more deeply into the trap of the rampant materialst culture...
After reaching the top of the hills, we went directly to a room where many people were either having or waiting to have their hair cut. Many people decide to give their hair to God as a form of thanks for wishes granted, or as a sign of rejection of material vanity. Those who do not shave their heads, generally give three cuttings of their hair. 9 members of our group shaved their heads, including two grandmothers and one aunt. I really liked the idea and wanted to shave my head (again) also, but decided that my reasons for doing so would be less than holy at this point in time, so I reserved myself.
After a good ol bucket bath we set out to visit the greatly anticipated temple of Venkateswara or Balaji. Being the richest and most visited holy site in the world, (reportedly) we shared the experience of visiting the temple that day with nearly 100,000 other people. During festivals, the number shoots up to nearly half a million people in one day. On the final day of the three we spent in the area, we enjoyed a free lunch put on by devotees of this temple. I was told that the lunch serves 10 of thousands of people daily ( I believe it) and is paid for on the interest alone from the income generated by this temple. God is said the manifest into the form of a human and dine with everyone who attends this lunch.
After the first day, we spent two more days visiting holy sites in and around Tirupati. We went to so many temples that I am not even sure of the exact number, at the moment. It is customary to eat Prasadam, food that is first offered to a Deity and then given out to devotees after seeing God at the temple, was given to me so many times that I was stuffed to the brim with holiness! It was incredible to experience all of these holy sites during the days of the full moon. One of the best views came at the Golden Temple of Laksmi in Tamil Nadu. Gouri and I were standing at the edge of a rupee filled pool with the golden temple in the middle and a bright and full moon hanging above. Around us was a grassy and tree filled area contained by a walkway in the shape of a 6 pointed star. there was a soft, cool breeze and the night air was smelling so fresh. Pretty magical.
On our way to Tamil Nadu, I was intrigued to look out the window at the sound of drums and horns. I thought that perhaps I would be able to see another wedding procession going on. To my surprise, when I looked out the window, I saw two men hanging from hooks through their backs that were attached to long wooden poles that were fixed to two carts being pulled by oxen. Yet another devotional act, which is quite common in the state of Tamil Nadu.
Yet again I find myself creating another copious email,despite attempts at brevity, and still hold so many stories partially or completely untold. As you can imagine, with a group of 25 on a three day action packed trip, many stories accumulated. Alas, I will leave you with the ones already disclosed and move on to one final point before I close.
I would like to take the time to tell you a bit about my birthday celebration, as my family here was very concerned that my family abroad would be missing me and wanted to make sure that they knew how well taken care of I was. To celebrate, 50 people gathered in one of the VMM halls for the cake cutting. They had arranged for a sheet cake decorated with a personalized greeting and artistic lotus flowers. As tradition dictates, I cut the first piece. If my parents were present I would have fed them the first pieces, before I received mine. In this case, Rashmi and two others fed me pieces of cake and then everyone enjoyed some. I was presented a handmade garland to wear around my neck, pieces of fruit from several people, a hand stitched bag, and a new outfit. Everyone sang happy birthday and lined up to shake my hand and wish me "happy birthday", and "many many happy return of the day." It was a very sweet celebration and I felt very honored.
To keep the energy moving forward I will leave you all today with sweetness and honor.
Haley
I have returned from my most recent adventure with Gouri. This time we were joined by 25 members of her family- destination Tirupati, a pilgrimage city in the state of Andhra Pradesh. As the group was coming from Visak and I was in Vijayawada, Chanti, "my driver," and Pavani, a friend from the office, accompanied me to the train station where I intercepted the train and joined my group. We were traveling in the class called "third AC." This meant that the car was air conditioned, and that we each had a small bunk for sleeping during the overnight trip. The bunks were stacked three high and there were to stacks of bunks in each compartment, so six people slept in each compartment. Not a bad way to travel for the equivalent of less than 10 American dollars :)
We arrived at the early morning hour of 5:30 and proceeded to freshen up in the third ac waiting room, complete with bathing areas, sinks, and an air conditioned room with chairs. After some time we loaded into two jeep style taxis. Most of the group went directly to the rooms in which we would all be staying, but the heartier members of the group were dropped at the bottom of the "seven hills" and over the course of the morning climbed out way to the top. 3,500 steps over the course of 8km and we had made it. I felt so energized all day, a welcome feeling after not being sure I would be able to make the journey as I was experiencing a fever, headache, nausea and diarrhea the days before. Another reason to make the pilgrimage to see God right?!
Some people make the entire journey on their knees. Others honor each step by placing kum kum ( a, usually red or yellow, powder used ceremoniously) on each step. Still others light camphor on each step as they go. Devotees have various forms of expressing their dedication, and it makes for a beautiful sight and a lot of really good energy.
Along the way we came across a fenced in area filled with white spotted, fuzzy horned deer. They had clearly become very accustomed to being fed by the pilgrims, as most of them crowded by the fencee in anticipation of an wilting carrot, cucumber or watermelon rind. I fed them somewhat hesitantly, somehow unable to escape a feeling of disappointment. I noticed some of the elder most dear (judging by their body and horn size) were sitting far away from the feeding frenzy, under the shade of a tree. It seemed to me that they were looking on like a wise grandparent watching their grandchildren fall more and more deeply into the trap of the rampant materialst culture...
After reaching the top of the hills, we went directly to a room where many people were either having or waiting to have their hair cut. Many people decide to give their hair to God as a form of thanks for wishes granted, or as a sign of rejection of material vanity. Those who do not shave their heads, generally give three cuttings of their hair. 9 members of our group shaved their heads, including two grandmothers and one aunt. I really liked the idea and wanted to shave my head (again) also, but decided that my reasons for doing so would be less than holy at this point in time, so I reserved myself.
After a good ol bucket bath we set out to visit the greatly anticipated temple of Venkateswara or Balaji. Being the richest and most visited holy site in the world, (reportedly) we shared the experience of visiting the temple that day with nearly 100,000 other people. During festivals, the number shoots up to nearly half a million people in one day. On the final day of the three we spent in the area, we enjoyed a free lunch put on by devotees of this temple. I was told that the lunch serves 10 of thousands of people daily ( I believe it) and is paid for on the interest alone from the income generated by this temple. God is said the manifest into the form of a human and dine with everyone who attends this lunch.
After the first day, we spent two more days visiting holy sites in and around Tirupati. We went to so many temples that I am not even sure of the exact number, at the moment. It is customary to eat Prasadam, food that is first offered to a Deity and then given out to devotees after seeing God at the temple, was given to me so many times that I was stuffed to the brim with holiness! It was incredible to experience all of these holy sites during the days of the full moon. One of the best views came at the Golden Temple of Laksmi in Tamil Nadu. Gouri and I were standing at the edge of a rupee filled pool with the golden temple in the middle and a bright and full moon hanging above. Around us was a grassy and tree filled area contained by a walkway in the shape of a 6 pointed star. there was a soft, cool breeze and the night air was smelling so fresh. Pretty magical.
On our way to Tamil Nadu, I was intrigued to look out the window at the sound of drums and horns. I thought that perhaps I would be able to see another wedding procession going on. To my surprise, when I looked out the window, I saw two men hanging from hooks through their backs that were attached to long wooden poles that were fixed to two carts being pulled by oxen. Yet another devotional act, which is quite common in the state of Tamil Nadu.
Yet again I find myself creating another copious email,despite attempts at brevity, and still hold so many stories partially or completely untold. As you can imagine, with a group of 25 on a three day action packed trip, many stories accumulated. Alas, I will leave you with the ones already disclosed and move on to one final point before I close.
I would like to take the time to tell you a bit about my birthday celebration, as my family here was very concerned that my family abroad would be missing me and wanted to make sure that they knew how well taken care of I was. To celebrate, 50 people gathered in one of the VMM halls for the cake cutting. They had arranged for a sheet cake decorated with a personalized greeting and artistic lotus flowers. As tradition dictates, I cut the first piece. If my parents were present I would have fed them the first pieces, before I received mine. In this case, Rashmi and two others fed me pieces of cake and then everyone enjoyed some. I was presented a handmade garland to wear around my neck, pieces of fruit from several people, a hand stitched bag, and a new outfit. Everyone sang happy birthday and lined up to shake my hand and wish me "happy birthday", and "many many happy return of the day." It was a very sweet celebration and I felt very honored.
To keep the energy moving forward I will leave you all today with sweetness and honor.
Haley
Monday, March 22, 2010
Amusing musings sing in us
Greetings fellow earth travelers,
I am feeling much more settled and reflective than when I sent along the last note which came barreling forth like it's namesake, the Indian train. I have had a restful night's sleep with added material comfort. I was provided with a basic mat to use on my cot when I arrived, but had loaned it to a friend who did not have one. I had become very accustomed to sleeping directly on the weaved fibers of my cot, and last night felt as though I was slumbering on a dreamy marshmellow cloud (you know the ones that you can play on in your dreams because they are not explained away by the scientist and thier water vapor talk :) ) I did subsequently sleep much later than usual, but after a successful second workshop, I was pleased to grant myself this opportunity.
It was quite the experience facilitating this workshop, as the American documentary film expert, for folks from all over India. What started out in my vision as a basic volunteer service for local NGO workers, turned out to be a more intensive program for 8 individuals whose daily residents span the breadth of India. One man was came all the way from Manipur, which is in NE India near the Nepalese boarder. (Foreigners need a restricted area permit to enter) It is a place that is strikingly different than where I am staying in the south, and I am very thankful to be given continual opportunities to expand my support network in india. Mother India and I already have an agreement for my return to attend to vague unfinished business, and I have not even stepped of her magnetic soils. She has a strong grip :)
I have agreed to complete one more training similar to the one I just completed before I embark on my journey back to the US on April 20th. For those of you interested, I will be in NY from the 21until the early morning hours on the 27th, at which time I will fly back to SF and begin a full time 6 month project with Far Wester, the company I worked with last field season. In addition to the doc. film training, I will organize a series of yoga classes at VMMs childrens village which will be lead by the master from which I have been learning about pranic breathing and kundalini yoga. In the mean time, I am also setting the intention of finding a female yoga instructor who would be willing to work with me daily at VMM, as Keerthi is somewhat concerned about me working so closely with a male teacher.
The cultural rules surrounding the roles and appropriate relationships of men and women here are incredibly strong and so interesting to me. I get away with a lot being a foreigner (thankfully) but still manage to push even my limits, many times unknowingly. Here, women have different lines at the airport for security checks which are conducted by women only. This is true of everywhere I have been where security is required, except on a few occasions where I have attended special events with Vidyamma, during which we casual breeze through security as honored guests and are not subjected to any searches or scans.
The idea of modesty is somewhat different than I would have imagined as well. I daily wear Punjabi dress (long tunic and pants) but usually forgo wearing my scarf as I end up dropping it, tripping on it, getting myself wrapped up in it etc. Even though the neck is quite high on most of my tops, it is still considered very bold and risque (spelling?) of me. It turned into quite the ordeal on the train to Visak. While Gouri and I were both sleeping there was apparently a couple young men commenting on my lack of Chuni and a chivalrous fella from a few rows back observed. I woke up to him loudly and obtrusively scolding the men. Meanwhile woman in saris sat "modestly" in thier tight blouses with a good portion of thier stomachs and backs exposed. It reminds me of a tribe in south america (maybe?) who live toplessly, but find the exposure of the female calf to be unspeakable.
Something else that has struck me recently is how unaware of my physical differences i have become. Being stared at is so commonplace now, that I hardly ever notice. Will it be weird to go unnoticed in the US? And on the rare occassion when I catch my reflection in a window or mirrow, I am shocked to see a white person with light hair and blue eyes staring back at me. Where did that body come from? I'm not an Indian?!
One final recent discovery, which I hadn't thought about prior to visiting Visak, was the source of some amusement for me. I purchased a new pair of chappels (sandles) as my perfectly broken in pair that I love and wear daily is becoming (or really has already become) very beat up and dingy looking (well loved and amazing). Apprearance is very important here, and I was attending many family functions, so, out of respect made this purchase. The leather sandles that I decided upon complete with jingley bangles, were being described to me as the highest quality (of course) camel leather from Rajistan. I hadn't stopped to think about where the leather that people wear here has been coming from. Of course it wouldn't be coming from thier worshipped cows!
As always, I keep you all in my heart as I float along, and am so thankful that so many loving souls do the same for me!
Satha Koti Deevenalu (Many Blessings)
Haley
I am feeling much more settled and reflective than when I sent along the last note which came barreling forth like it's namesake, the Indian train. I have had a restful night's sleep with added material comfort. I was provided with a basic mat to use on my cot when I arrived, but had loaned it to a friend who did not have one. I had become very accustomed to sleeping directly on the weaved fibers of my cot, and last night felt as though I was slumbering on a dreamy marshmellow cloud (you know the ones that you can play on in your dreams because they are not explained away by the scientist and thier water vapor talk :) ) I did subsequently sleep much later than usual, but after a successful second workshop, I was pleased to grant myself this opportunity.
It was quite the experience facilitating this workshop, as the American documentary film expert, for folks from all over India. What started out in my vision as a basic volunteer service for local NGO workers, turned out to be a more intensive program for 8 individuals whose daily residents span the breadth of India. One man was came all the way from Manipur, which is in NE India near the Nepalese boarder. (Foreigners need a restricted area permit to enter) It is a place that is strikingly different than where I am staying in the south, and I am very thankful to be given continual opportunities to expand my support network in india. Mother India and I already have an agreement for my return to attend to vague unfinished business, and I have not even stepped of her magnetic soils. She has a strong grip :)
I have agreed to complete one more training similar to the one I just completed before I embark on my journey back to the US on April 20th. For those of you interested, I will be in NY from the 21until the early morning hours on the 27th, at which time I will fly back to SF and begin a full time 6 month project with Far Wester, the company I worked with last field season. In addition to the doc. film training, I will organize a series of yoga classes at VMMs childrens village which will be lead by the master from which I have been learning about pranic breathing and kundalini yoga. In the mean time, I am also setting the intention of finding a female yoga instructor who would be willing to work with me daily at VMM, as Keerthi is somewhat concerned about me working so closely with a male teacher.
The cultural rules surrounding the roles and appropriate relationships of men and women here are incredibly strong and so interesting to me. I get away with a lot being a foreigner (thankfully) but still manage to push even my limits, many times unknowingly. Here, women have different lines at the airport for security checks which are conducted by women only. This is true of everywhere I have been where security is required, except on a few occasions where I have attended special events with Vidyamma, during which we casual breeze through security as honored guests and are not subjected to any searches or scans.
The idea of modesty is somewhat different than I would have imagined as well. I daily wear Punjabi dress (long tunic and pants) but usually forgo wearing my scarf as I end up dropping it, tripping on it, getting myself wrapped up in it etc. Even though the neck is quite high on most of my tops, it is still considered very bold and risque (spelling?) of me. It turned into quite the ordeal on the train to Visak. While Gouri and I were both sleeping there was apparently a couple young men commenting on my lack of Chuni and a chivalrous fella from a few rows back observed. I woke up to him loudly and obtrusively scolding the men. Meanwhile woman in saris sat "modestly" in thier tight blouses with a good portion of thier stomachs and backs exposed. It reminds me of a tribe in south america (maybe?) who live toplessly, but find the exposure of the female calf to be unspeakable.
Something else that has struck me recently is how unaware of my physical differences i have become. Being stared at is so commonplace now, that I hardly ever notice. Will it be weird to go unnoticed in the US? And on the rare occassion when I catch my reflection in a window or mirrow, I am shocked to see a white person with light hair and blue eyes staring back at me. Where did that body come from? I'm not an Indian?!
One final recent discovery, which I hadn't thought about prior to visiting Visak, was the source of some amusement for me. I purchased a new pair of chappels (sandles) as my perfectly broken in pair that I love and wear daily is becoming (or really has already become) very beat up and dingy looking (well loved and amazing). Apprearance is very important here, and I was attending many family functions, so, out of respect made this purchase. The leather sandles that I decided upon complete with jingley bangles, were being described to me as the highest quality (of course) camel leather from Rajistan. I hadn't stopped to think about where the leather that people wear here has been coming from. Of course it wouldn't be coming from thier worshipped cows!
As always, I keep you all in my heart as I float along, and am so thankful that so many loving souls do the same for me!
Satha Koti Deevenalu (Many Blessings)
Haley
Thursday, March 18, 2010
Capital Gains and Indian Trains
Happy Ugadi everyone!
Ugadi is the Telugu New Year which just passed on March 16th. I was in the coastal city of Visakhapatnam staying with friends and enjoy a wonderful chutney made only once a year of tangy green mangos, fresh coconut, green chili, jaggery (a less processed sugarcane product) and tamarind juice! The chutney is not only celebratory of the new Year, but also the start of another mango season here in southern India. I am enjoying the green mangos now, and so pleased I will be here to enjoy a newly sun ripened orange mango freshly fallen from the tree in a few weeks! I was originally thinking I may miss out on the mangoes in order to head north and do some further exploration, but it now seems as though I will be staying south for the remainder of my time here.
Before traveling to Vizag, (as it is known locally), and taking a dip the Bay of Bengal, visiting a meditation center, receiving a long awaited massage, visiting a 2000 plus year old Buddhist site, learning the culinary secrets of Indian women with my newly acquired family, I spent a few days with some extended "family" in Hyderabad, the capital city of the state in which i have been residing, Andhra Pradesh.
During this time, some intriguing historical sites, including the "Old City." The streets of the old city were teaming with bustling groups and individuals shopping among the local artisans. I was fascinated by the number of Muslim woman purdah, veiled from outside gazers and also from the world of men. There was something ironic about the woman cloaked in their sea of black, looking at and buy wildly bright Indian textiles. I am aware that this is my outsider perspective and that i will never truly know about the individuals beneath the anonymising (Bushism? not you tara ;) ) cloth. I tried to discretly take photographs of these women and failed...didn't fail in taking the pictures persay, but was having a hard time being discreet as the tall white tourist.
When i started this email i had intentions of telling you all so many things about the wonderful adventures i have been encountering, but alas I have decided to devote time to updating facebook (yes, crackbook strikes again) pictures, and am therefore going to neglect taking this story any further. I could be focusing all of my attention on preparing for my workshop this weekend, which by the way, I found out yesterday that folks are litteraly flying in from all over india to attend! But, who wants to focus ALL of their attention on any one thing?! Not I, said the duck duck (Little Red hen, any one with me?!) haha ok, Haley Chronicles to be continued.....
LoVe like a storm in the desert (did i just rip off john Denver?!?!) hahahah
Haley
Ugadi is the Telugu New Year which just passed on March 16th. I was in the coastal city of Visakhapatnam staying with friends and enjoy a wonderful chutney made only once a year of tangy green mangos, fresh coconut, green chili, jaggery (a less processed sugarcane product) and tamarind juice! The chutney is not only celebratory of the new Year, but also the start of another mango season here in southern India. I am enjoying the green mangos now, and so pleased I will be here to enjoy a newly sun ripened orange mango freshly fallen from the tree in a few weeks! I was originally thinking I may miss out on the mangoes in order to head north and do some further exploration, but it now seems as though I will be staying south for the remainder of my time here.
Before traveling to Vizag, (as it is known locally), and taking a dip the Bay of Bengal, visiting a meditation center, receiving a long awaited massage, visiting a 2000 plus year old Buddhist site, learning the culinary secrets of Indian women with my newly acquired family, I spent a few days with some extended "family" in Hyderabad, the capital city of the state in which i have been residing, Andhra Pradesh.
During this time, some intriguing historical sites, including the "Old City." The streets of the old city were teaming with bustling groups and individuals shopping among the local artisans. I was fascinated by the number of Muslim woman purdah, veiled from outside gazers and also from the world of men. There was something ironic about the woman cloaked in their sea of black, looking at and buy wildly bright Indian textiles. I am aware that this is my outsider perspective and that i will never truly know about the individuals beneath the anonymising (Bushism? not you tara ;) ) cloth. I tried to discretly take photographs of these women and failed...didn't fail in taking the pictures persay, but was having a hard time being discreet as the tall white tourist.
When i started this email i had intentions of telling you all so many things about the wonderful adventures i have been encountering, but alas I have decided to devote time to updating facebook (yes, crackbook strikes again) pictures, and am therefore going to neglect taking this story any further. I could be focusing all of my attention on preparing for my workshop this weekend, which by the way, I found out yesterday that folks are litteraly flying in from all over india to attend! But, who wants to focus ALL of their attention on any one thing?! Not I, said the duck duck (Little Red hen, any one with me?!) haha ok, Haley Chronicles to be continued.....
LoVe like a storm in the desert (did i just rip off john Denver?!?!) hahahah
Haley
Saturday, February 27, 2010
Seva the World
Namascarome all! (local greeting similar to the Hindu namaste)
The taste of of sun ripened papaya combined with the tangy dryness of unsweetened yogurt (called curd here) lingers in my mouth as I sit typing to you on this summer evening. It is after nine and the sun has been down for some time now, yet the breeze from the ceiling fan above still feels warm upon my face and arms. That may have something to do with sun kissed nature of my slightly pink skin, in addition to the steadily increasing temperature. I was out in the mid-day blaze today on a trip to goddess Durga's temple, and will be wearing the mild result for a couple of days.
Sun or no sun, I am happy to have been involved in a 5 day series of classes in Kundalini yoga. I have been learning ancient breathing techniques in a group setting(I have also been invited to meet with the master personally as much as I can while I am here, and he will teach me "all I want to know" I will start these sessions next week). It has been yet another wonderful form of meditation to incorporate into my routine, and it feels like it came just at the right time (go figure). I speak of the timing, as this week has involved many powerful experiences and emotions that I am taking time to sort out both consciously and unconsciously.
Donna Guenther (retired MD/documentary photographer who put me in touch with VMM) is currently here in Vijayawada. We have been spending time together doing field visits as follow-ups on a photography series she is working on. Yesterday we visited a sex worker colony in the Guntur district. The colony is comprised of over 1500 sex workers and their families. We met with four HIV positive women within the colony, 3 of which had been sold to the colony as teenagers. The 4th moved to the colony because she was in love with a man who later sold her to one of the colony "madams." The madams keep all of the money that the workers make, and give them only enough to feed and cloth them.
Today we traveled to an industrial portion of the city that is home to a high population of migrant workers. Three members of the VMM staff were putting on a street play that incorporated youthful comedy with important information about HIV/AIDS. The play was being performed on the roadside next to VMM's HIV/AIDS mobile testing center where anyone can voluntarily be tested free of charge, and have the status disclosed to them within an hour. ptive to the overall scene, but regardless 20 people were tested while we were there. We didn't stay to hear the results, but the average results indicate that it is likely that at least one will be positive, as the area average is nearly 5 positive people out of 100. To put this in perspective for you, an average of 12 cases out of 100,000 are diagnosed positive in NY each year.
On a lighter note, the day that Donna arrived, we were invited to join Vidayamma (The great matriarch of VMM) at a very special awards ceremony honoring five countrymen (yes, all men) in the areas of music, arts and service, literature and Veda in the presence of a highly reveried Guru (Sri Sri Jayendra Saraswathi Swamiji). I was, for the first time, granted the opporunity to ride in the really special car that is reserved for Vidayamma! (I was squeezed in the front with Shanti (the driver) and Pavini (a young women who works in the office and was assigned to making catering to Donna this week) but that made no difference to me. I have since been given the higher honor of sitting in the back seat. (Everything here is a hierarchy!) Anyway! The ceremony started out with some of the most beautiful traditional Indian music and it lasted for over an hour. I was enthralled! We were sitting in the 5th row, which was wonderful, aside from the media people who decided by standing in front of everyone that if you really wanted a clear view of the program, you had to buy the film! Regaurdless of the brazen mediapersons, it was really and honor to attend this event!
I am going to take the time to tell you about my day today, although I am aware that these emails tend to be quite long. I saved the draft I wrote last night with the intentions of sending it out this morning, but India had other plans for me that I found it quite interesting. Saraswathi, my neighbor in the hostel, is working as a doctor. Today is to be her last day in the government hospital here, and she brought me along to show me what it is like. I was given the grand tour with an all access pass. (white skin and a smile) I was allowed to visit all of the wards, including the ICU even though there was a giant no visitors sign posted on the door. I didn't stay long as I saw some pretty gnarly sights, and felt a bit uncomfortable observing out of sheer curiosity, although I am sure they all thought I was a doctor. I was introduced to a large percentage of the staff, including a gynecologist who was tending to a patient while we exchanged small talk.
It was explained to me that the patients receive all of their care and medicines free of charge. A percentage of each of the staff members' pay is returned to the hospital to help cover cost, and the rest must be covered somehow through taxation? The hospital reminded me of something out of an old war movie with its dingy dimly lit corredorss hosting identical beds filled with malnourished patients with sundry ailments. Saraswathi sees up to 400 patients a day! These folks show up with small notebooks of varying shades of aged yellow, that serve as their medical records. (Each individual is responsible for holding on to thier own records) After about two mins of scanning the notebook, asking a few questions, and sometimes checking blood pressure or listening to the lung/heart of the patient, they are sent on their way to pick up medicine at the dispensary or follow other brief instructions from the doctor. I am curious how this compares to inner city clinics back home, as my only experience is with well funded private hospitals.
That's enough out of me for now. I feel as though this email may be a bit choppy, so if thier are any portions that leave you curious or wonder, as always, send me a note. I love you all and think of you often. For those of you in NY, I will try to send some sun shine your way :)
Haley Papa
The taste of of sun ripened papaya combined with the tangy dryness of unsweetened yogurt (called curd here) lingers in my mouth as I sit typing to you on this summer evening. It is after nine and the sun has been down for some time now, yet the breeze from the ceiling fan above still feels warm upon my face and arms. That may have something to do with sun kissed nature of my slightly pink skin, in addition to the steadily increasing temperature. I was out in the mid-day blaze today on a trip to goddess Durga's temple, and will be wearing the mild result for a couple of days.
Sun or no sun, I am happy to have been involved in a 5 day series of classes in Kundalini yoga. I have been learning ancient breathing techniques in a group setting(I have also been invited to meet with the master personally as much as I can while I am here, and he will teach me "all I want to know" I will start these sessions next week). It has been yet another wonderful form of meditation to incorporate into my routine, and it feels like it came just at the right time (go figure). I speak of the timing, as this week has involved many powerful experiences and emotions that I am taking time to sort out both consciously and unconsciously.
Donna Guenther (retired MD/documentary photographer who put me in touch with VMM) is currently here in Vijayawada. We have been spending time together doing field visits as follow-ups on a photography series she is working on. Yesterday we visited a sex worker colony in the Guntur district. The colony is comprised of over 1500 sex workers and their families. We met with four HIV positive women within the colony, 3 of which had been sold to the colony as teenagers. The 4th moved to the colony because she was in love with a man who later sold her to one of the colony "madams." The madams keep all of the money that the workers make, and give them only enough to feed and cloth them.
Today we traveled to an industrial portion of the city that is home to a high population of migrant workers. Three members of the VMM staff were putting on a street play that incorporated youthful comedy with important information about HIV/AIDS. The play was being performed on the roadside next to VMM's HIV/AIDS mobile testing center where anyone can voluntarily be tested free of charge, and have the status disclosed to them within an hour. ptive to the overall scene, but regardless 20 people were tested while we were there. We didn't stay to hear the results, but the average results indicate that it is likely that at least one will be positive, as the area average is nearly 5 positive people out of 100. To put this in perspective for you, an average of 12 cases out of 100,000 are diagnosed positive in NY each year.
On a lighter note, the day that Donna arrived, we were invited to join Vidayamma (The great matriarch of VMM) at a very special awards ceremony honoring five countrymen (yes, all men) in the areas of music, arts and service, literature and Veda in the presence of a highly reveried Guru (Sri Sri Jayendra Saraswathi Swamiji). I was, for the first time, granted the opporunity to ride in the really special car that is reserved for Vidayamma! (I was squeezed in the front with Shanti (the driver) and Pavini (a young women who works in the office and was assigned to making catering to Donna this week) but that made no difference to me. I have since been given the higher honor of sitting in the back seat. (Everything here is a hierarchy!) Anyway! The ceremony started out with some of the most beautiful traditional Indian music and it lasted for over an hour. I was enthralled! We were sitting in the 5th row, which was wonderful, aside from the media people who decided by standing in front of everyone that if you really wanted a clear view of the program, you had to buy the film! Regaurdless of the brazen mediapersons, it was really and honor to attend this event!
I am going to take the time to tell you about my day today, although I am aware that these emails tend to be quite long. I saved the draft I wrote last night with the intentions of sending it out this morning, but India had other plans for me that I found it quite interesting. Saraswathi, my neighbor in the hostel, is working as a doctor. Today is to be her last day in the government hospital here, and she brought me along to show me what it is like. I was given the grand tour with an all access pass. (white skin and a smile) I was allowed to visit all of the wards, including the ICU even though there was a giant no visitors sign posted on the door. I didn't stay long as I saw some pretty gnarly sights, and felt a bit uncomfortable observing out of sheer curiosity, although I am sure they all thought I was a doctor. I was introduced to a large percentage of the staff, including a gynecologist who was tending to a patient while we exchanged small talk.
It was explained to me that the patients receive all of their care and medicines free of charge. A percentage of each of the staff members' pay is returned to the hospital to help cover cost, and the rest must be covered somehow through taxation? The hospital reminded me of something out of an old war movie with its dingy dimly lit corredorss hosting identical beds filled with malnourished patients with sundry ailments. Saraswathi sees up to 400 patients a day! These folks show up with small notebooks of varying shades of aged yellow, that serve as their medical records. (Each individual is responsible for holding on to thier own records) After about two mins of scanning the notebook, asking a few questions, and sometimes checking blood pressure or listening to the lung/heart of the patient, they are sent on their way to pick up medicine at the dispensary or follow other brief instructions from the doctor. I am curious how this compares to inner city clinics back home, as my only experience is with well funded private hospitals.
That's enough out of me for now. I feel as though this email may be a bit choppy, so if thier are any portions that leave you curious or wonder, as always, send me a note. I love you all and think of you often. For those of you in NY, I will try to send some sun shine your way :)
Haley Papa
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
As sweet as sugar cane juice...
Hello, hello!
Where to begin today? My most recent encounter seems appropriate. This afternoon I took a walk down the 'The modern supermarket,' the bi level store where I purchase my everyday items (relative term), ranging from a tiffin container (a tightly sealing stainless steal container for storing rice, with and insert that goes on top for storing a curry separately) to ALL OUT, the chemical cocktail insert for an infuser that I try not to ponder while I sleep mostly mosquito free, to an ayurvedic menthol-y balm used to sooth headaches, in addition to groceries. This afternoon while I was on a mission for some more granola style cereal, I was somewhat taken back to look up an see a fellow white skinned creature standing in the isle, inspecting the boxes of granola. We spoke briefly, and it turns out that she is an American who's parents live in north Africa. She has been staying in Vijayawada for about a month, (like me!) and is planning to be here for another two months. We have exchanged contact info, and I am happy to have yet another friend in this city!
To catch you up briefly, the workshop I was set to begin last time I sent along a conglomerate of carefully, albeit it quickly, arranged words, went really well overall. It was a unique experience for many reasons, the most striking of which was the language barrier. My students did not speak English, a few key phrases aside, and Kumar Raja, the man who was assisting in translation and I often have a hard time understanding each other. So my instruction often turned into an amusing game of over exaggerated charades coupled with a good deal of pointing at things and emphatically repeating two to three words. I did see a marked improvement in their skill lever over the course of the three days, so in that, I feel something must have been getting through :)
They are now completing their final scripts which Dr. Deeksha and I will review before they begin filming. Keerthi was so pleased with my facilitating skills that she has appointed Abraham (another man in the office, whose English is slightly easier for me to follow) to arrange another workshop. This time I will be teaching staff from local NGO's. Currently, I am editing the film my first group of students shot during the field practical session held during the workshop. It is an short expose on unruly pedestrians darting in and out of traffic that will be used in schools to teach traffic safety. I smile knowing that I am often a culprit of this tango with local traffic, but I keep that to myself.
I ventured out for dinner in town last night. (with Gouri, Shalini (hostel mates), and Pria (Oxford PHD student)) We went to a restaurant where we enjoyed as much food as we could stomach (literally) under a soft breeze created by ceiling fans.( If we had opted to sit in the adjacent air conditioned room, it would have cost us each 10 rupees more). I was able to enjoy some delicious local favs, enhanced by flavors from the likes of ghee, coconut, and extra rich curd, that are often absent at the mess hall due to the cost. I ate so much that I was not sure I would be able to leave the table, but once back on the street I managed to find room for a cup of sugar cane juice, dressed up with some lemon and ginger. YUMMMM
Tonight the four of us will head back out to see an Indian classic movie called Maya Bizarre. The starring actor recently "expired, as they like to say, so the movie has re-entered the theaters. I am equally curious about the theater and the movie and oh so thankful that Gouri is both able and willing to keep me in the language loop. After the movie we will do some sampling at a nearby tiffin bar, where they serve over 30 kinds of dosas. Large, very thin pancake looking breakfast/ snack item.
That being said, in addition to me again becoming aware of the time, I will finish here for today. I have some new cloths waiting for me at the tailor, which i would like to pick up before we go. I picked one up yesterday, and she did a great job. I am excited to see the other two. She seems to be using extra care with my cloths, and even offered to put elastic in my pants as I am "not used to tying knots like the Indian women do." I declined, but the gesture was sweet, nonetheless.
LOVE TO YOU !
Haley
Where to begin today? My most recent encounter seems appropriate. This afternoon I took a walk down the 'The modern supermarket,' the bi level store where I purchase my everyday items (relative term), ranging from a tiffin container (a tightly sealing stainless steal container for storing rice, with and insert that goes on top for storing a curry separately) to ALL OUT, the chemical cocktail insert for an infuser that I try not to ponder while I sleep mostly mosquito free, to an ayurvedic menthol-y balm used to sooth headaches, in addition to groceries. This afternoon while I was on a mission for some more granola style cereal, I was somewhat taken back to look up an see a fellow white skinned creature standing in the isle, inspecting the boxes of granola. We spoke briefly, and it turns out that she is an American who's parents live in north Africa. She has been staying in Vijayawada for about a month, (like me!) and is planning to be here for another two months. We have exchanged contact info, and I am happy to have yet another friend in this city!
To catch you up briefly, the workshop I was set to begin last time I sent along a conglomerate of carefully, albeit it quickly, arranged words, went really well overall. It was a unique experience for many reasons, the most striking of which was the language barrier. My students did not speak English, a few key phrases aside, and Kumar Raja, the man who was assisting in translation and I often have a hard time understanding each other. So my instruction often turned into an amusing game of over exaggerated charades coupled with a good deal of pointing at things and emphatically repeating two to three words. I did see a marked improvement in their skill lever over the course of the three days, so in that, I feel something must have been getting through :)
They are now completing their final scripts which Dr. Deeksha and I will review before they begin filming. Keerthi was so pleased with my facilitating skills that she has appointed Abraham (another man in the office, whose English is slightly easier for me to follow) to arrange another workshop. This time I will be teaching staff from local NGO's. Currently, I am editing the film my first group of students shot during the field practical session held during the workshop. It is an short expose on unruly pedestrians darting in and out of traffic that will be used in schools to teach traffic safety. I smile knowing that I am often a culprit of this tango with local traffic, but I keep that to myself.
I ventured out for dinner in town last night. (with Gouri, Shalini (hostel mates), and Pria (Oxford PHD student)) We went to a restaurant where we enjoyed as much food as we could stomach (literally) under a soft breeze created by ceiling fans.( If we had opted to sit in the adjacent air conditioned room, it would have cost us each 10 rupees more). I was able to enjoy some delicious local favs, enhanced by flavors from the likes of ghee, coconut, and extra rich curd, that are often absent at the mess hall due to the cost. I ate so much that I was not sure I would be able to leave the table, but once back on the street I managed to find room for a cup of sugar cane juice, dressed up with some lemon and ginger. YUMMMM
Tonight the four of us will head back out to see an Indian classic movie called Maya Bizarre. The starring actor recently "expired, as they like to say, so the movie has re-entered the theaters. I am equally curious about the theater and the movie and oh so thankful that Gouri is both able and willing to keep me in the language loop. After the movie we will do some sampling at a nearby tiffin bar, where they serve over 30 kinds of dosas. Large, very thin pancake looking breakfast/ snack item.
That being said, in addition to me again becoming aware of the time, I will finish here for today. I have some new cloths waiting for me at the tailor, which i would like to pick up before we go. I picked one up yesterday, and she did a great job. I am excited to see the other two. She seems to be using extra care with my cloths, and even offered to put elastic in my pants as I am "not used to tying knots like the Indian women do." I declined, but the gesture was sweet, nonetheless.
LOVE TO YOU !
Haley
Sunday, February 14, 2010
Hello once again,
Here I sit, after completing the preparations for my workshop, smiling to myself. I have considered myself to be a pretty laid back individual, who is practiced at the art of going with the flow, but the last week has shown me otherwise. Over the course of the week, I have become increasingly aware of my western sensibilities, and desire for material ques of progress. As I continued to work out schedules, ask questions, create documents, I was softly reminded that everything will work itself out. "You're here, with us, it is going to be great. We will help you." I have to laugh,knowing that I have not met with my team and yet when 9:30 tomorrow morning comes, we will work together, and have a successful day.In this, I am reminded of a quote I read (and instantly agreed with) a couple of weeks ago. "I found [my way] by making careful plans that quickly disintegrated, as they always did in India, into fate and serendipity" (E. Bumiller).
In addition to gathering my thoughts for the workshop, I have been able to spend some more time learning a bit more about the numerous projects that VMM is involved in. A friend of mine, (Shalini) whose birthday wish was to introduce me to some orphan children who were excited to meet a white american, accompanied me to VMM Children's Village. We set out on our birthday adventure! One auto rickshaw, two people, two buses, and a short walk later, we had arrived. The children were still at school for the day, so I had the opportunity to check out the facilities and view the vast vegetable gardens on the grounds. In addition to housing, feeding, and loving 30 children(HIV/AIDS orphans), the facility is equipped with the capacity to train the children with sewing and embroidery skills. They make the most beautiful Sari's and sell them locally, to supplement the cost of the maintaining the village. Once the children arrived they sang and danced for me, and smiles never left their faces (nor mine).
I have recently been made the honorary editor here at the office. I am putting my native language skills to good use, making sure that documents are in proper order before they leave the office. It started when we were preparing for the National Aids Control Organization's (NACOs) Director General to pay us a visit, which turned out to be quite the media event. My face made it into the background of a photograph that was published the next day in a national paper (The Hindu).
When I first arrived here, there was a bit of cultural confusion, as only men wear jeans. I have since put away my jeans and have become accustomed to wearing the local punjabi dress (Long tunic, usually silk, with matching pants and Chuni or scarf like article) daily. Many of you would be shocked to know that at this moment, I am dressed shoulders to ankles in baby pink! I enjoy the comfort of the cloths on these increasingly warm days, but am far from mastering the graceful art of chuni wearing :)
I took my style a step further while attending a birthday party. (Dr. Deeksha threw a fabulous suare in honor of her son becoming a major (turning 18)). I arrived at the event, in a beautiful black Sari (I did not find out until later that wearing a black sari denotes ones feeling that they are the star of the party!) complete with heels and gold jewelry compliments of my friend (Srilu) who spent 20 mins getting the Sari tied on me properly. What an art that is! And these women can do it themselves! I am still in awe of this fact every morning watching the working woman going about their business in their Saris, knowing that they tied them on that morning without help! My favorite comment, of the many flattering remarks I received was, "Haley Akka, you look like a superhero!" Akka means elder sister in Telugu.
As much fun as it has been playing dress up, I am told that it may be the source of a recent fever I endured. Local lore dictates that a jealous woman was likely to have seen how beautiful I look in Indian dress and became envious. In a fit of jealousy, she cast evil spirits upon me that manifested themselves in the form of a feverish headache. It is a wonderful thought, to think that that I was only sick because I am so beautiful...good step towards the road to recovery :)
Well, it is just about tea time, so I will leave you all to contemplate my beauty until next time :) haha. Seriously though, I have fallen in love with my afternoon chai in an ornately decorated petite mug. Oh and speaking of drinks I have fallen in love with! There is a man down the rd (Bapu) who will make me a fresh cup of juice (I get to choose from a plethora of delicious exotic fruits) without sugar and ice (he finds that funny) for 15 rupees, which is like 35 cents. Actually, I can (and do) buy whole papayas for 10rs from my fruit guy across the street. This place is magic!
LOVE TO ALL
Haley
PS I nearly forgot to explain the email subject. The customary greeting here (like our How are you?) is Have you had your lunch? Or breakfast, tea, depending on the time of day. The anthropologist in me wonders if this is because food scarcity is so common in India that asking if one has had their meal, is essentially a question about their well being...???
PPS (double post scrips are becoming a theme) Once again, if I have omitted anyone, please feel free to forward this and make me aware of my omission. <3
Here I sit, after completing the preparations for my workshop, smiling to myself. I have considered myself to be a pretty laid back individual, who is practiced at the art of going with the flow, but the last week has shown me otherwise. Over the course of the week, I have become increasingly aware of my western sensibilities, and desire for material ques of progress. As I continued to work out schedules, ask questions, create documents, I was softly reminded that everything will work itself out. "You're here, with us, it is going to be great. We will help you." I have to laugh,knowing that I have not met with my team and yet when 9:30 tomorrow morning comes, we will work together, and have a successful day.In this, I am reminded of a quote I read (and instantly agreed with) a couple of weeks ago. "I found [my way] by making careful plans that quickly disintegrated, as they always did in India, into fate and serendipity" (E. Bumiller).
In addition to gathering my thoughts for the workshop, I have been able to spend some more time learning a bit more about the numerous projects that VMM is involved in. A friend of mine, (Shalini) whose birthday wish was to introduce me to some orphan children who were excited to meet a white american, accompanied me to VMM Children's Village. We set out on our birthday adventure! One auto rickshaw, two people, two buses, and a short walk later, we had arrived. The children were still at school for the day, so I had the opportunity to check out the facilities and view the vast vegetable gardens on the grounds. In addition to housing, feeding, and loving 30 children(HIV/AIDS orphans), the facility is equipped with the capacity to train the children with sewing and embroidery skills. They make the most beautiful Sari's and sell them locally, to supplement the cost of the maintaining the village. Once the children arrived they sang and danced for me, and smiles never left their faces (nor mine).
I have recently been made the honorary editor here at the office. I am putting my native language skills to good use, making sure that documents are in proper order before they leave the office. It started when we were preparing for the National Aids Control Organization's (NACOs) Director General to pay us a visit, which turned out to be quite the media event. My face made it into the background of a photograph that was published the next day in a national paper (The Hindu).
When I first arrived here, there was a bit of cultural confusion, as only men wear jeans. I have since put away my jeans and have become accustomed to wearing the local punjabi dress (Long tunic, usually silk, with matching pants and Chuni or scarf like article) daily. Many of you would be shocked to know that at this moment, I am dressed shoulders to ankles in baby pink! I enjoy the comfort of the cloths on these increasingly warm days, but am far from mastering the graceful art of chuni wearing :)
I took my style a step further while attending a birthday party. (Dr. Deeksha threw a fabulous suare in honor of her son becoming a major (turning 18)). I arrived at the event, in a beautiful black Sari (I did not find out until later that wearing a black sari denotes ones feeling that they are the star of the party!) complete with heels and gold jewelry compliments of my friend (Srilu) who spent 20 mins getting the Sari tied on me properly. What an art that is! And these women can do it themselves! I am still in awe of this fact every morning watching the working woman going about their business in their Saris, knowing that they tied them on that morning without help! My favorite comment, of the many flattering remarks I received was, "Haley Akka, you look like a superhero!" Akka means elder sister in Telugu.
As much fun as it has been playing dress up, I am told that it may be the source of a recent fever I endured. Local lore dictates that a jealous woman was likely to have seen how beautiful I look in Indian dress and became envious. In a fit of jealousy, she cast evil spirits upon me that manifested themselves in the form of a feverish headache. It is a wonderful thought, to think that that I was only sick because I am so beautiful...good step towards the road to recovery :)
Well, it is just about tea time, so I will leave you all to contemplate my beauty until next time :) haha. Seriously though, I have fallen in love with my afternoon chai in an ornately decorated petite mug. Oh and speaking of drinks I have fallen in love with! There is a man down the rd (Bapu) who will make me a fresh cup of juice (I get to choose from a plethora of delicious exotic fruits) without sugar and ice (he finds that funny) for 15 rupees, which is like 35 cents. Actually, I can (and do) buy whole papayas for 10rs from my fruit guy across the street. This place is magic!
LOVE TO ALL
Haley
PS I nearly forgot to explain the email subject. The customary greeting here (like our How are you?) is Have you had your lunch? Or breakfast, tea, depending on the time of day. The anthropologist in me wonders if this is because food scarcity is so common in India that asking if one has had their meal, is essentially a question about their well being...???
PPS (double post scrips are becoming a theme) Once again, if I have omitted anyone, please feel free to forward this and make me aware of my omission. <3
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